Hands using a yellow-handled screwdriver at a steel deadbolt plate on a dark door, with a steel knob below.

High security · Toronto

High Security Locks

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You jiggle the key a little and the old deadbolt opens even when the cut does not look quite right. If your worn key can do that, you wonder what a stranger with the right tools could do.

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In plain words

High security locks are cylinders and deadbolts designed to defeat the methods used against ordinary doors. Inside the cylinder a second locking mechanism, usually a sidebar released by finger pins or rotating pins, has to be satisfied at the same time as the normal pin stack, which is what stops picking and bumping. Hardened steel inserts stop drill bits. The bolt is thicker and carries a hardened pin against sawing, and a reinforced strike ties the lock into the wall framing. Just as important, the key is cut on a patented blank that only an authorised person can have copied, so your key count stays known.

Sound familiar?Toronto

The call: The pharmacy stockroom, the server closet or the cash office is protected by the same ordinary cylinder as the staff washroom. One lost key on a lanyard would open all of them.

NextHow the visit goes

High Security Locks · Toronto

How the visit goes

Steel lever handle lockset with two strike plates, loose screws, a screwdriver and an open box on a wooden bench.

Scene 1
Reading the cylinder you have now
The existing cylinder tells the locksmith a great deal. A standard pin tumbler with an open keyway can be picked, bumped and duplicated by anyone with the blank. Worn pins let a key that is not quite right jiggle it open. A cylinder that spins loosely in its housing or shows a scratched face has been attacked or simply worn out. The locksmith identifies the format, whether key-in-knob, rim, mortise or interchangeable core, because that determines which high-security cylinders will drop into your present hardware and which will need a new lock body altogether.
Scene 2
Reinforcing the strike and frame
The strike is where a forced door actually fails, so it gets serious attention. The stamped plate comes off and the pocket is deepened to accept a box strike or a long reinforced strike, fastened with three-inch screws that pass through the jamb into the wall framing. Stripped or split wood is filled and doweled first so the screws have something to hold. Where the frame is thin, a wrap-around reinforcer around the door edge and a full-length jamb plate are options. The result is a bolt that ties the door into the house rather than into a strip of trim.
Scene 3
Ordering keys the right way
Extra keys are now a small procedure rather than an errand. An authorised person contacts the locksmith, the request is checked against the system record, and the key is cut from code so it works as cleanly as the first. New keys are numbered and added to the register. Businesses often issue keys against a signature and collect them when someone leaves, which the register makes simple. Homeowners typically keep two or three spare keys and hold onto the authorisation card. A key cut from a worn copy would not release the sidebar properly, which is one more reason the code route is the only route.

In the van

Three-inch strike and hinge screws
Reinforced strike plate
Code key cutting machine
High-security cylinder
Wrap-around door reinforcer

What shapes the quoteNorth Park Locksmith Co.

Strike and frame reinforcement: A reinforced strike with long screws is modest work on a healthy frame. Deepening the pocket, filling split wood, fitting a jamb plate or a wrap-around reinforcer adds materials and time.
Condition of the door itself: A solid door that hangs true takes hardware straight away. A dropped, swollen or hollow door may need hinge work, shimming or a recommendation to replace the slab before the lock is worth fitting.
Commercial lock bodies: Heavy-duty deadbolts, mortise locks, narrow-stile deadlocks and cylinder guards for storefront and warehouse doors are heavier hardware than residential deadbolts and priced as such.

FeesSame any hour

Have it ready

Before you call · 0 / 3

Which locks are on the door now: knob only, knob and deadbolt, a mortise lock or a lever?
How many exterior doors do you want included?
For a business, who should be allowed to authorise new keys?

(289) 536-9733

Let's clear a few things up

What proof do I need to show before locks are changed?

The locksmith confirms that the person ordering the work is entitled to change the locks: the owner, a tenant with the landlord's agreement, or a property or facilities manager for a business. Photo identification and something linking you to the address usually settle it, and for a company a letter or a call to the named contact does the same. It protects you as much as anyone, since the same check stops someone else from changing your locks.

How do I order extra keys later?

An authorised person contacts the locksmith who holds your system, quotes the system reference, and the key is cut from code and numbered into the register. Some systems use a physical authorisation card, others an online validation, and business systems often require a signature that matches one on file. The key is collected or delivered, and the record shows the new total. It is deliberately not something a stranger with your key can do.

Can all my doors be on one key?

Yes, and most homes ask for exactly that. Every exterior cylinder is pinned to the same combination so one controlled key opens the front, back, side and garage entry. A gate or shed padlock on the same keyway can join it. For businesses, the same keyway can carry a small master system where staff keys open only their areas and a manager key opens everything. The keying plan is agreed before any pinning is done.